FAQ's

Installing ProLift

The following instructions will help you create an opening in your shop-made routertop for a Bench Dog ProLift or ProPlate. The procedure can be completed fairly quickly (about 15 to 30 minutes). Click here for a PDF version.

Step 1 - Mark the Location of the ProLift/ProPlate
Determine the location of where you want the router opening. Consider where the router will hang within your cabinet, the orientation of the router’s switch and cord, and the distance you want the router bit from the front or back of your table. Place your ProLift/ProPlate upside down, on top of your homemade router table (Fig.1). Trace around the perimeter of the ProLift/ProPlate with a pencil.

Step 2 - Draw Offset Line
Move the ProLift/ProPlate off to the side and draw an offset line 1/2” inside the traced outer line (Fig. 2). Round the corners to match the radius of the outer line. You will remove this material in the next step to create your router opening through-hole.

Step 3 - Cut Out the Opening
Drill a small hole to start your cut (Fig. 3, Inset). Using a jigsaw, cut out the opening by following the inner offset line.

Step 4a - Attach the Template
Replace the ProLift/ProPlate within the traced lines. Using the four scrap wood pieces you will now form a template for routing the opening. Apply double-sided carpet tape to each piece of wood as shown (Fig. 4a).

4b. Carefully place each piece of wood around the perimeter of the ProLift/ProPlate to form the template (Fig. 4b). Firmly press each piece in place.

4c. Remove the ProLift/ProPlate and set it aside, exposing the template and opening (Fig. 4c). You have created a template that’s exactly the same size as your plate. The bearing guided router bit will ensure that the insert opening is the same size as your template.

Step 5a - Route the Insert Opening
Begin this step by adjusting the bit height on your router. You will remove about 1/4” on the first pass, followed by a clean up pass to achieve final depth. The obvious goal is to get your plate perfectly flush with the routertop.

5b. Route the first pass, moving the router in a clockwise motion (Fig. 5b).

5c. Set the final bit height depth. Use a piece of the scrap wood (same thickness as used on template) as a reference to set the bit depth to the thickness of the plate (Fig. 5c). Stacking up your router, the template, and your ProPlate/ProLift plate can be a little cumbersome, but it is the best way to ensure your final thickness is perfect. The final bit depth should be equal to the thickness of the template plus the thickness of the ProLift/ProPlate.

5d. Route the final pass, moving the router in a clockwise motion (Fig. 5d).

Step 6 - Check for Fit
Before removing the template, place the ProLift/ProPlate upside down into the opening and check for fit (Fig. 6). Adjust router bit depth and re-route if necessary. As you can see in the photo, you’ll have just as smidgeon of routertop exposed to check the flushness.

Step 7 - Remove Template
Set the ProLift/ProPlate aside. If you used carpet tape for your template, carefully lift each piece of wood at one end and pry it from your router table (Fig. 7).

Step 8a - Final Fitting
Install the ProLift/ProPlate into the opening. Check the surfaces for any necessary height adjustments (Fig. 8a). Having to scrape the opening or sand the recess is VERY COMMON to achieve your final fit.

8b. Use a wood chisel and/or sand paper to trim the surfaces and corners of the routed area for a perfect fit. Make any necessary adjustments until the plate surface is flush with the table surface and all contact surfaces fit snug (Fig. 8b).